Bolton Hill is a beautiful neighborhood. It is also a prime example of how quickly Baltimore can turn from a flourishing place into a really downtrodden place in the matter of a single block. Take the heart of Bolton Hill, for instance — a regal, tree-lined park painted in autumnal shades of yellow, while starry-eyed brunettes read all-too-thick novels on shaded benches overlooking stately rowhomes that stand four stories tall. This is Eutaw Street.
A single street south is McMechen Street. The sun beats down on the pavement here, while wandering packs of dope fiends meander in and out of the alleyways that form narrow canyons between rows of ancient houses in various states of disrepair.
My friend Patrick and I went wandering through this would-be bizarro universe side of Bolton Hill. Police cameras strobe in staccato flickers up and down the avenue. A man in tattered blue denim passes us, and turns around promptly to ask if we know where we are. “Yes,” we reply. “We’re from the city.” He shrugs and keeps walking in a way that seems to say “don’t say I didn’t warn you.” Patrick in particular is used to the cold, uneasy stares of West Baltimore’s residents. The racial divide here is staggering.
There’s a rowhome not far from a flashing police light that has been converted into a baptist church. The door is propped open by a wooden chair, and the sounds of a late Sunday sermon spill out into the street. I kneel down and focus on the doorway, where a large woman fans herself with a hymnal while muttering “Praise Jesus” in between breaks in the pastor’s fevered pitch. Patrick walks just around the corner and kneels as well, composing the scene from a different angle.
From the corner of my viewfinder, I see a third-story window slowly open. A man leans out, clutching something in his hand. He says something, cocks his arm back and chucks the bottle down at Patrick below. There’s a loud pop as the glass shatters a scant few feet from him, and a spray of what he hopes is fruit juice covers Patrick and his camera.
We catch up, we laugh nervously. We quickly decide it is time to leave.